Haleakala National Park

House of the Sun

At once forbidding and compelling, Haleakala National Park is Maui's main natural attraction (Haleakala means house of the sun). More than 1.3 million people a year ascend the 10,023-foot-high mountain to peer down into the crater of the world's largest dormant volcano. (Haleakala is officially considered to be "active, but not currently erupting," even though it has not rumbled or spewed lava since 1790.) That hole would hold Manhattan: 3,000 feet deep, 7 1/2 miles long by 2 1/2 miles wide, and encompassing 19 square miles.

The Hawaiians recognized the mountain as a sacred site. Ancient chants tell of Pele, the volcano goddess, and one of her siblings doing battle on the crater floor where Kawilinau (Bottomless Pit) now stands. Commoners in ancient Hawaii didn't spend much time here, though. The only people allowed into this sacred area were the Kahuna, who took their apprentices to live for periods of time in this intensely spiritual place. Today New Agers also revere Haleakala as one of the earth's powerful energy points, and even the U.S. Air Force has a not-very-well-explained presence here.

But there's more to do here than simply stare into a big black hole: Just going up the mountain is an experience in itself. Where else on the planet can you climb from sea level to 10,000 feet in just 37 miles, or a 2-hour drive? The snaky road passes through big, puffy, cumulus clouds to offer magnificent views of the isthmus of Maui, the West Maui Mountains, and the Pacific Ocean.

Many drive up to the summit in predawn darkness to watch the sun rise over Haleakala. Writer Mark Twain called it "the sublimest spectacle" of his life. Others take a trail ride inside the bleak lunar landscape of the wilderness inside the crater or coast down the 37-mile road from the summit on a bicycle with special brakes. Hardy adventurers hike and camp inside the crater's wilderness. Those bound for the interior bring their survival gear because the terrain is raw, rugged, and punishing. However, if you choose to experience Haleakala National Park, it will prove memorable -- guaranteed.

The Legend of the House of the Sun -- According to ancient legend, Haleakala got its name from a very clever trick that the demigod Maui pulled on the sun. Maui's mother, the goddess Hina, complained one day that the sun sped across the sky so quickly that her tapa cloth couldn't dry.

Maui, known as a trickster, devised a plan. The next morning he went to the top of the great mountain and waited for the sun to poke its head above the horizon. Quickly, Maui lassoed the sun, bringing its path across the sky to an abrupt halt.

The sun begged Maui to let go, and Maui said he would on one condition: that the sun slow its trip across the sky to give the island more sunlight. The sun assented. In honor of this agreement, the Hawaiians call the mountain Haleakala, or "House of the Sun."

To this day, the top of Haleakala has about 15 minutes more sunlight than the communities on the coastline below.

Just the Facts

Haleakala National Park extends from the summit of Mount Haleakala into the crater, down the volcano's southeast flank to Maui's eastern coast, beyond Hana. There are actually two separate and distinct destinations within the park: Haleakala Summit and the Kipahulu coast. The summit gets all the publicity, but Kipahulu draws crowds, too -- it's lush, green, and tropical, and home to Oheo Gulch (also known as Seven Sacred Pools). No road links the summit and the coast; you have to approach them separately, and you need at least a day to see each place.

When to Go -- At the 10,023-foot summit, weather changes fast. With wind chill, temperatures can be below freezing any time of year. Summers can be dry and warm, winters wet, windy, and cold. Before you go, get current weather conditions from the park (tel. 808/572-4400) or the National Weather Service (tel. 808/871-5054).

From sunrise to noon, the light is weak, but the view is usually free of clouds. The best time for photos is in the afternoon, when the sun lights the crater and clouds are few. Go on full-moon nights for spectacular viewing. However, even when the forecast is promising, the weather at Haleakala can change in an instant -- be prepared.

Access Points -- Haleakala Summit is 37 miles, or about a 2-hour drive, from Kahului. To get here, take Highway 37 to Highway 377 to Highway 378. Pukalani is the last town for water, food, and gas.

The Kipahulu section of the national park is on Maui's east end near Hana, 60 miles from Kahului on Highway 36 (the Hana Hwy.). Due to traffic and rough road conditions, plan on 4 hours for the drive from Kahului. Hana is the only nearby town for services, water, gas, food, and overnight lodging; some facilities may not be open after dark.

At both entrances to the park, the admission fee is $5 per person or $10 per car, good for a week of unlimited entry.

Information, Visitors Centers & Ranger Programs -- For information before you go, contact Haleakala National Park, P.O. Box 369, Makawao, HI 96768 (tel. 808/572-4400).

One mile from the park entrance, at 7,000 feet, is Haleakala National Park Headquarters (tel. 808/572-4400), open daily from 7am to 4pm. You can pick up information on park programs and activities, get camping permits, and, occasionally, see a nene (Hawaiian goose) -- one or more are often here to greet visitors. Restrooms, a pay phone, and drinking water are available.

The Haleakala Visitor Center, open daily from sunrise to 3pm, is near the summit, 11 miles from the park entrance. It offers a panoramic view of the volcanic landscape, with photos identifying the various features, and exhibits that explain its history, ecology, geology, and volcanology. Park staff members are often on hand to answer questions. The only facilities are restrooms and water.

Rangers offer excellent, informative, and free naturalist talks at 9:30, 10:30, and 11:30am daily in the summit building.

The Drive to the Summit

If you look on a Maui map, almost in the middle of the part that resembles a torso, there's a black wiggly line that looks like this: WWWWW. That's Highway 378, also known as Haleakala Crater Road -- one of the fastest-ascending roads in the world. This grand corniche has at least 33 switchbacks; passes through numerous climate zones; goes under, in, and out of clouds; takes you past rare silversword plants and endangered Hawaiian geese sailing through the clear, thin air; and offers a view that extends for more than 100 miles.

Going to the summit takes about 2 hours from Kahului. No matter where you start out, you'll follow Highway 37 (Haleakala Hwy.) to Pukalani, where you'll pick up Highway 377 (which is also Haleakala Hwy.), which you take to Highway 378. Along the way, expect fog, rain, and wind. You might encounter stray cattle and downhill bicyclists. Fill up your gas tank before you go -- the only gas available is 27 miles below the summit at Pukalani. There are no facilities beyond the ranger stations, so bring your own food and water.

Remember, you're entering a high-altitude wilderness area. Some people get dizzy due to the lack of oxygen; you might also suffer lightheadedness, shortness of breath, nausea, or worse: severe headaches, flatulence, and dehydration. People with asthma, pregnant women, heavy smokers, and those with heart conditions should be especially careful in the rarefied air. Bring water and a jacket or a blanket, especially if you go up for sunrise. Or you might want to go up to the summit for sunset, which is also spectacular.

As you go up the slopes, the temperature drops about 3° every 1,000 feet, so the temperature at the top can be 30° cooler than it was at sea level. Come prepared with sweaters, jackets, and rain gear.

At the park entrance, you'll pay an entrance fee of $10 per car (or $2 for a bicycle). About a mile from the entrance is Park Headquarters, where an endangered nene, or Hawaiian goose, might greet you with its unique call. With its black face, buff cheeks, and partially webbed feet, the gray-brown bird looks like a small Canada goose with zebra stripes; it brays out "nay-nay" (thus its name), doesn't migrate, and prefers lava beds to lakes. The unusual goose clings to a precarious existence on these alpine slopes. Vast populations of more than 25,000 once inhabited Hawaii, but hunters, pigs, feral cats and dogs, and mongooses preyed on the nene; coupled with habitat destruction, these predators nearly caused its extinction. By 1951 there were only 30 left. Now protected as Hawaii's state bird, the wild nene on Haleakala number fewer than 250 -- and the species remains endangered.

Beyond headquarters are two scenic overlooks on the way to the summit. Stop at Leleiwi on the way up and Kalahaku on the way back down, if only to get out, stretch, and get accustomed to the altitude. Take a deep breath, look around, and pop your ears. If you feel dizzy or drowsy, or get a sudden headache, consider turning around and going back down.

Leleiwi Overlook is just beyond mile marker 17. From the parking area, a short trail leads you to a panoramic view of the lunarlike crater. When the clouds are low and the sun is in the right place, usually around sunset, you can experience a phenomenon known as the "Specter of the Brocken" -- you can see a reflection of your shadow, ringed by a rainbow, in the clouds below. It's an optical illusion caused by a rare combination of sun, shadow, and fog that occurs in only three places on the planet: Haleakala, Scotland, and Germany.

Two miles farther along is Kalahaku Overlook, the best place to see a rare silversword. You can turn into this overlook only when you are descending from the top. The silversword is the punk of the plant world, its silvery bayonets display tiny purple bouquets -- like a spacey artichoke with attitude. This botanical wonder proved irresistible to humans, who gathered them in gunnysacks for Chinese potions, for British specimen collections, and just for the sheer thrill of having something so rare. Silverswords grow only in Hawaii, take from 4 to 50 years to bloom, and then, usually between May and October, send up a 1- to 6-foot stalk with a purple bouquet of sunflower-like blooms. They're now very rare, so don't even think about taking one home.

Continue on, and you'll quickly reach the Haleakala Visitor Center, which offers spectacular views. You'll feel as if you're at the edge of the earth. But don't turn around here: The actual summit's a little farther on, at Puu Ulaula Overlook (also known as Red Hill), the volcano's highest point, where you'll find a mysterious cluster of buildings officially known as Haleakala Observatories, but unofficially called Science City. If you do go up for sunrise, the building at Puu Ulaula Overlook, a triangle of glass that serves as a windbreak, is the best viewing spot. After the daily miracle of sunrise -- the sun seems to rise out of the vast crater (hence the name "House of the Sun") -- you can see all the way across Alenuihaha Channel to the often snowcapped summit of Mauna Kea on the Big Island.

Making Your Descent -- Put your car in low gear. That way, you won't destroy your brakes by riding them the whole way down.

Touring the Surfing Goat Dairy Farm

Just beyond the sugar-cane fields, on the slopes of Haleakala, lies the Surfing Goat Dairy, 3661 Omaopio Rd., Kula (tel. 808/878-2870). Some 140 dairy goats blissfully graze the 42 acres and contribute the milk for the 24 different cheeses, which are made every day. If you have kids in tow, they will love the 2-hour Grand Dairy Tour, where they can be a goat herder for a day and even try to milk a goat. They can also play with the kids -- goat kids that is. Meanwhile, mom and dad can learn how to make cheese and sample the different varieties of cheese made on the premises. The admission price is $25. The Grand Dairy Tours are scheduled several times each month; call for information. If you don't have a lot of time, drop by for the 20-minute casual dairy tour (Mon-Sat 10am-4pm and Sun 10am-1pm) for just $5 a person. Be sure to sample the goat cheeses (off-the-charts terrific) and buy a bar or two of goat-milk soap.

Maps:

• Haleakala National Park (Frommers)

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip. Copyright 2000-2008 by Wiley Publishing, Inc. All rights reserved.